JAPANiCAN.com > Japan Articles > My Own Mt. Fuji: Kawaguchiko's Sunnide Resort Hotel
My Own Mt. Fuji: Kawaguchiko's Sunnide Resort Hotel
by Bryan - JAPANiCAN.com Staff

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The stunning view from the terrace of Sunnide Resort's Sen Ikkei annex (Japanese/Western-style rooms)

Whether it's from the bullet train traveling between Tokyo and Kyoto, from Hakone's cable cars and cruise ships, or simply from a Tokyo skyscraper on an exceptionally clear day, catching a glimpse of Mt. Fuji never fails to inspire. Even better then is spending an entire weekend with Mt. Fuji as your backdrop, as I did when I stayed at Sunnide Resort in Kawaguchiko, Yamanashi Prefecture.

Location & Access

Located just north of Mt. Fuji, the Fuji Five Lakes region is home to breathtaking scenery and is a popular retreat from Tokyo. The town of Kawaguchiko lies along the lake of the same name, and is a great starting point for exploring the other lakes and Mt. Fuji itself. Getting to Kawaguchiko from Tokyo is fairly easy, with both highway buses and train options available. I used the JR Kawaguchiko pass, which includes round-trip fare as well as unlimited use of one of four bus lines in the Kawaguchiko area. I found the local sightseeing buses an easy way to get around the lake. Riding a highway bus from Shinjuku Station is slightly cheaper and requires no transfers, but does not include use of the local sightseeing buses. On the train from Shinjuku, take a Azusa Express on the Chuo Line to Otsuki Station, and then switch to the Fuji Kyuko Line for Kawaguchiko Station.

Kawaguchiko Station served as the starting point for my trip, with Mt. Fuji already looming over the station building.

Eager to get started but also hungry after the journey by train, I decided to grab a bite to eat at Fudou, a restaurant across from the station that serves hotoh noodles. Not having a clue what "hotoh" noodles were, and with the menu outside describing them only as a "local specialty," I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Luckily, hotoh turned out to be a dish full of thick noodles in a hearty pumpkin soup, and quite delicious.

Fudou's darkened interior provided a welcome break from the unseasonably warm weather, and the softly playing shamisen music got me in the mood to discover something new. Ready to begin exploring in earnest, my next stop was the visitor's center next to the train station. I picked up a bus timetable and used my pass to get on the Retro Bus, which makes stops at all the major sites around Lake Kawaguchi.

Lake Kawaguchi
The first must-see site on the Retro Bus line was the Kawaguchi Ropeway, which takes visitors up to the peak of nearby Mt. Tenjo for panoramic views of the lake and Mt. Fuji.

Arriving at the top of the ropeway, I noticed a small wooded path leading higher. Curious, I went down the path despite none of the other visitors making any moves in that direction. Eventually I came upon a small private clearing, and was able to enjoy the view in peace.

The tranquility of the moment was soon interrupted though, as a monkey was quite unexpectedly sitting in the middle of my path back to the ropeway! He made no motion to move from his resting place, so I had no choice but to try and edge my way past. After a slightly embarrassing confrontation, I managed to convince the monkey I meant no harm and was able to make my way back to the lake.

Arriving at the Sunnide Resort Hotel
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Sunnide's Japanese/Western Rooms offer a mixture of traditional style and modern comfort.

After exploring more of Kawaguchiko's southern shores, I returned to the station to be picked up by my hotel for the night, the Sunnide Resort. Sunnide offers pickup service to all JAPANiCAN.com customers, simply contact JAPANiCAN.com Customer Support or the hotel directly to reserve. I wanted to get to the hotel early to take advantage of its main selling point: outdoor baths attached to each guest room with sweeping views of both the lake and Mt. Fuji. Stepping into the warm bath with the snow-capped peak of Mt. Fuji directly in front of me, I could not have felt further from the concrete expanses of Tokyo.

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Sunnide's Sen Ikkei annex, built in 2007
Two room types at Sunnide are available on JAPANiCAN.com, and while both feature spectacular views of Mt. Fuji, the Japanese/Western Rooms in the newly constructed Sen Ikkei annex have proven extremely popular thanks to the private outdoor baths located on the veranda. I stayed in a Japanese/Western-style room, and was immediately impressed with its wide beds and spacious main room. Sunnide bills itself as a cross between a traditional ryokan and a more modern hotel. With a central tatami room, hot spring baths, and two meals included for all guests, Sunnide's facilities meet the main criteria for a ryokan, but its service style fits the Western hotel mold, with front desk staff in suits instead of the traditional room attendant in kimono.


Night Falls & Dinnertime

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Sunnide's photographers do a much better job.
Night soon came after settling in and sampling the bath, and as I tried in vain to take a quality picture of Mt. Fuji my stomach told me it was time for dinner. Sunnide's facilities may be a mixture of traditional Japanese and Western styles, but it's dinner service was pure Japan. And what a service it was. Following the traditional kaiseki style, dish after dish was brought to me, each offering an exquisitely prepared item almost as appealing artistically as it was delicious. Beginning with an assortment of seasonal appetizers, I was also treated to a plate of fresh sashimi, including glistening cubes of tuna, slices of yellowtail, and topped off by an Ise lobster. As I enjoyed my appetizers, a small brazier on my table heated a bamboo box, steaming its contents to perfection. Once the fuel burned itself out I opened the box to find thin slices of beef atop a bed of greens. A small set of sauces was provided to garnish, but completely unnecessary. On its own or with just a pinch of salt, the meat was simply amazing, and the meal's high point.

Like most kaiseki meals, the volume of each individual dish at Sunnide wasn't large, but by the time the tempura, udon, and dessert courses arrived to finish my meal I was already overwhelmed by the amount and variety of food I had eaten. Utterly satisfied, I left the dining room and quickly changed into the provided robe to head for Sunnide's hot springs.


Sunnide's Hot Springs
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Men's outdoor hot-spring bath

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Women's outdoor hot-spring bath
The baths attached to Sunnide's guest rooms may not contain spring water, but luckily Sunnide also features separate hot spring baths for use by all guests who want to sample Kawaguchiko's hot springs. Like most most Japanese baths, Sunnide's facilities were separated between men and women, but both genders get an amazing view of Mt. Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi. I had the men's bath to myself after dinner, and was quickly in danger of passing out due to extreme relaxation and contentment. After showering and a long soak I returned to my room for another session with the provided massage chair and fell asleep in record time.


The Next Day: Kawaguchiko Sightseeing
The next morning unfortunately I woke up to a bit of a disappointing sight. The spectacular view of Mt. Fuji that lay directly outside my window was covered by an equally spectacular amount of fog, and a light drizzle put a damper on the lake and surroundings. Although I was let down at first, I discovered there's actually plenty to do in Kawaguchiko even when the weather is less than perfect. Just a short walk from Sunnide next to Oishi Park was the Oishi Tsumugi Workshop, where traditional dolls and textiles are made locally. Several short classes were also available for visitors looking to try their hand at making their own souvenir.

Perhaps the best place to spend a rainy day in Kawaguchiko, however, was the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum. Itchiku Kubota's gorgeously dyed silk kimonos have been displayed in galleries worldwide, but his museum in Kawaguchiko displays a dazzling array of his works and those of his family. The building itself is an impressive attraction as well, with its Gaudi-influenced architecture combining with traditional Japanese garden elements to create an original fusion of styles unlikely to be seen anywhere else.

Even if the weather were to fail to cooperate for your entire trip in Kawaguchiko, it's still possible to get a good look at Mt. Fuji thanks to the Fuji Visitor's Center. The building contains geographical information and videos detailing in a variety of languages the history of Japan's most famous mountain. The Fuji Visitor's Center was my last stop in Kawaguchiko, so I headed back towards the station. Even more than when I arrived, the station was abuzz with activity, with groups arriving on buses and waiting for train departures. I spent the time waiting for the next train in the station's gift shop, and bought some hotoh noodles to take home with me.

I only got to see a small taste of all the lake has to offer, but Kawaguchiko and Sunnide Resort presented an amazingly relaxing weekend retreat. I would highly recommend Kawaguchiko and Sunnide Resort for the food, the scenery, and of course Mt. Fuji.


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Japanese-Style Rooms
from JPY27,000

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Japanese/Western Rooms with outdoor bath from JPY49,400

Book a room at the Sunnide Resort Hotel
All prices listed are per room/per night for 2 guests with dinner & breakfast included.


Read a related article: Stunning Views of Mt. Fuji from your Hotel
[ Hotel, Mt. Fuji, Onsen (Hot Springs), Ryokan | published 2010.04.21 | PermaLink ]


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