I arrived at Shuzenji Onsen in late October, before the fall leaves had completely turned. I had come to the area to stay at Kikuya (shortened from the Japanese name, Yukairo Kikuya), a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) that was renowned for its old-world architecture and distinctly Japanese baths. Roughly located at the center of the Izu Peninsula, the Shuzenji Onsen area is home to three spots that captured a coveted two-star rating (three being the maximum) in the 2009 edition of the respected French guidebook, Michelin Green Guide Japon: Shuzenji (the central shrine), Chikurin no Komichi (a wooded pathway) and Shigetsuden (a temple).

I set out on the JR Tokyu "Odoriko" train from Tokyo Station at 9:00 in the morning. From there, it was a straight run for about two hours before finally alighting at Shuzenji Station. For those of you taking the Tokaido Shinkansen Line, it takes approximately one hour to get from Tokyo to Mishima, where you will transfer to the Izu Hakone Railway and continue on about another 35 minutes from there. From Shuzenji Station, you are just a ten-minute bus ride to Shuzenji Onsen bus stop. Kikuya stood by the bus stop, awaiting my arrival. I figured I would shed a few pounds of luggage and then head off in search of adventure! At least, that was what I thought until I heard my stomach growling and decided I had better head off in search of lunch first.

Heading back a bit from the bus stop, I soon found myself outside Zenfutei Nanaban, a restaurant famous for the unique Zendera Soba set advertised on the banner that hung outside. It is said to be based on the meal that Zen monks partake in after breaking their fast. I handed over 1,260 yen for the set and had a tray dropped in front of me bearing a huge lump of fresh wasabi nestled atop a dark green leaf.

"Is this your first time?" the waiter asked. I nodded, sending him into a well-rehearsed speech about the joys of grating your own wasabi. He informed me that patrons can even take the wasabi home with them -- though the grater would have to stay. As the container on the far right also contained soba, I was quite full by time the meal was done.

With nearly 1,200 years of history by the Katsura River, this onsen town is overflowing with venerable establishments. Chief amongst them the two-star stars of the show, Shuzenji, Shigetsuden and Chikurin no Komichi. The latter runs by the river, where the sound of rushing water cascades through the verdant bamboo grove, washing away travelers' troubles. A vermilion bridge and historic ryokan stand by the river, imparting an atmosphere of tranquil tradition and cultivated beauty.

As befitting such a historic location, there is no shortage of historic structures in the Shuzenji area. I was fortunate enough to be staying at Kikuya, which had hosted members of the Imperial household and famed novelist Natsume Soseki in its over 360 years of business.

To stay at Kikuya is to experience traditional Japan. Wooden buildings from the Meiji Era still stand. A walkway circles around a carp-filled pond. A handmade windowpane slightly distorts the view outside, just as the very air itself seems to subtly shift you to a bygone era.

I stayed in an annexed Japanese-style room with its own private open-air bath. During the ryokan's 2006 renovations, they constructed a new annex housing rooms that fused Japanese and modern styles. Here rooms consist of two sections -- one with tatami and a low table and another with flooring and a futon bed.

From the other side of a large window, a terrace provides a stunning view of the lush greenery outside. At anytime, you can enjoy the fresh air and the pristine waters of the outdoor bath. At anytime, you can flop onto your fluffy futon. If you are looking for a relaxing vacation spot then you need look no further.

After resting a moment in my room, it was finally time to begin my onsen adventure. There are both indoor and outdoor baths that are separated by gender. The ryokan also boasts four types of reservable baths. The pure, alkaline waters are clear and invigorating, and gazing at the natural beauty surrounding you while soaking in an open-air bath imparts a truly liberating sensation.

A bucket filled with ice and chilled milk and coffee milk. The lounge features hot coffee and herb tea. Also, guestrooms' refrigerators come stocked with mineral water and cider. Since all of these drinks are provided free of charge (additional costs do apply for beer), you will not be thirsty during your stay.

The four reservable open-air baths can be used free of charge. Just be sure to check the sign at the entrance to make sure the bath has not already been set aside for someone else.

I decided to stop by the "Hoshi" (Star) reservable open-air bath. I felt like a V.I.P., as I was the only one in the spacious dressing room and bathing area.

After reinvigorating myself at the onsen, it was time at last to go exploring. As I walked through the ryokan's central passage, I felt as though I was also walking through the passage of time as each section of the hallway brought with it a design element from some different point in history. One could imagine Kikuya being offered assimilation into the modern age, but politely declining in true Japanese fashion.

Walk this corridor and you cannot help but be absorbed in the intricate architecture and design of various eras. Extending from the foyer to the front desk, this blue carpet leaves a distinct impression. Antique chairs line the hallway, gazing out into the wilderness.

After getting out of the bath, a visit to the terrace is in order. This is my recommended spot for viewing the building from outside.

I had dinner at the restaurant. The meal began with chestnuts and sweet potatoes, two popular autumn treats in Japan.

After I finished the fresh sashimi, I was surprised to find that I could then choose from a variety of dishes before moving on to dessert.

If guests choose different items they can each sample a variety of tastes found on the menu. Izu offers a multitude of seasonal delicacies. From fried sakura shrimp to fritters made from yogurt-fed pigs, there is a large volume of dishes available.

For breakfast, guests are given an option of Japanese or Western-style dishes. I opted for bread, potage soup, salad, ham and a few other items. Much like dinner, this also proved a filling meal.

With checkout at 11:00 a.m., you have enough time to visit the onsen and relax a bit after breakfast.

Classic Japanese architecture, an onsen that warms body and soul, a soft bed, fresh Japanese cuisine... Kikuya is a high-class anachronism, that rare property that manages to seamlessly blend traditional qualities with modern convenience.